The renowned French chef Marc Veyrat, famous for his bold personality and innovative approach to haute cuisine, has returned to the spotlight with the opening of his latest restaurant, Le Restaurant Marc Veyrat, located in the charming ski resort of Megève in the French Alps. This establishment, already being hailed as a must-visit for food enthusiasts, marks a new chapter in the career of a chef known both for his complex dishes and his outspoken stance against the Michelin Guide, often regarded as the “bible” of global gastronomy.
The new restaurant represents Veyrat’s return to prominence after years of distancing himself from the world of Michelin stars. This time, he has taken a radical approach: banning Michelin inspectors from visiting his establishment. This decision reflects not only his dissatisfaction with the Michelin rating system but also an attempt to redefine the dining experience, prioritizing pleasure and hospitality over the pressures of rankings.
The turbulent relationship between Marc Veyrat and the Michelin Guide began in 2019, when his acclaimed restaurant La Maison des Bois, located in the French Alps, was downgraded from three to two stars by the guide. The decision outraged Veyrat, who filed a lawsuit against Michelin, demanding a detailed explanation for the downgrade, the removal of the restaurant from the guide, and a symbolic compensation of one euro, along with efforts to restore his reputation in the culinary community.
The tipping point of the conflict was an accusation by Michelin inspectors, who claimed that a soufflé served at the restaurant contained cheddar, a foreign cheese not traditional to the Alpine region. Veyrat vehemently denied the accusation, explaining that the yellowish hue of the dish came from a blend of local cheeses, such as Reblochon and Beaufort, along with a touch of saffron. Despite his passionate defense, Veyrat lost the case and was ordered to cover court costs. However, the dispute left a lasting impact. To this day, he harshly criticizes Michelin, calling its inspectors “incompetent” and questioning the subjective criteria used to determine the ratings.
Following the downgrade and legal battle, Veyrat handed over the management of La Maison des Bois to his daughter, who renamed the restaurant Le Hameau de mon Père (“The Hamlet of My Father”) in honor of the chef. He describes the location as magical and takes pride in the new generation carrying on his culinary legacy. “I’m very proud of her,” Veyrat says of his daughter. “It’s a special place, with an energy that transcends cuisine.”
Despite the challenges he faced, Marc Veyrat never lost his passion for cooking. That passion is what led him to open Le Restaurant Marc Veyrat, a venue that combines sophistication, innovation, and the chef’s signature hospitality. Located in the picturesque village of Megève, known for its luxurious ski resorts, the restaurant offers an exceptional culinary experience. With an eight-course menu priced at 450 euros per person, the establishment aims to capture the essence of the Alpine region, highlighting local ingredients and haute cuisine techniques.
The restaurant is more than just a dining venue; it is an extension of Veyrat’s personality. The chef, always recognized by his iconic wide-brimmed black hat, makes it a point to interact with his guests, becoming an integral part of the experience. “I like to meet every person who comes to my restaurant. It’s not about ego; I believe that human connection is what makes a dining experience truly memorable,” he explains.
Despite the high prices, Veyrat emphasizes that the goal of the new venture is not profit. According to him, the restaurant aims only to balance costs and ensure fair wages for his team. The chef’s financial stability comes from other ventures, allowing him to focus on delivering an authentic and uncompromising experience.
One of the most notable aspects of the new restaurant is Veyrat’s decision to prohibit Michelin Guide inspectors from entering. He has made it clear that he does not wish to relive the pressure and stress he faced in the past. However, the decision may not be enough to keep the inspectors away, as Michelin is known to send anonymous reviewers. This happened, for example, with South Korean chef Eo Yun-gwon, who attempted to remove his restaurant from the guide in 2019 but found it reviewed nonetheless.
Veyrat joins other chefs who have also questioned the weight of Michelin ratings. A notable example is Sébastien Bras, who requested the removal of his restaurant from the guide in 2017, calling it “the price of freedom.” Two years later, Michelin re-listed the restaurant without prior notice. Another chef, Frédéric Ménager, rejects evaluations, preferring to focus on his guests’ satisfaction. “The only stars that matter are the ones shining in the eyes of customers as they leave delighted,” Ménager says, echoing a philosophy Veyrat seems to share.
Even with increasing criticism, the Michelin Guide remains influential in France, where 639 restaurants were listed in its 2024 edition. However, the stance of chefs like Veyrat sparks debates about the guide’s influence and the future of haute cuisine.
Le Restaurant Marc Veyrat is more than a gastronomic venue; it is a celebration of creative freedom. From Thursday to Saturday, Veyrat himself leads the kitchen, showcasing what he calls “high-definition cuisine,” which uses locally harvested aromatic herbs and innovative techniques. On Sundays, his wife Christine takes over, offering a special menu priced at 220 euros, inspired by ancient culinary traditions. Christine cooks over an open flame, a practice she says enhances flavors and creates a nostalgic experience for guests.
Though recently opened, the restaurant has already garnered significant attention, with guests from around the world seeking to experience Veyrat’s unique vision. Meanwhile, the chef remains busy with new projects. He is writing a book about his career and leading a campaign against ultra-processed foods, reaffirming his commitment to sustainability and healthy eating. “I don’t have time to grow old,” he jokes, demonstrating that his passion for gastronomy and innovation continues to drive him.
With his fearless approach and desire to challenge norms, Marc Veyrat reaffirms his position as one of the most intriguing and inspiring chefs of his generation. Le Restaurant Marc Veyrat is not just a new restaurant; it is a manifesto for creative freedom and reinvention, proving that even after great challenges, there is always room for new beginnings.
