“Everything is better than before”: how Syria is reopening to tourism – TK

“Everything is better than before”: how Syria is reopening to tourism

After a long period of devastation and conflict, Syria is taking its first steps toward recovery, particularly in the tourism sector. On December 8, 2024, Damascus was taken by Syrian rebels, marking the end of Bashar al-Assad’s 24-year regime, which ruled the country with an iron fist. With Assad’s fall and his escape to Moscow, Free Syria finally raises its green, white, and black flag over the capital. Now, amidst the destruction, entrepreneurs like Ayoub Alsmadi are determined to revitalize tourism, driving the recovery of a war-torn country.

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Alsmadi, founder of Syria Scope Travel, exudes optimism. “Greetings from Free Syria! I am in Damascus right now. The winter is beautiful, and everything is better than before,” he told CNN Travel. “Everyone is very optimistic since the fall of Assad’s regime,” he adds, his eyes gleaming with hope.
This historic moment also marks the return of international airlines like Qatar Airways and Turkish Airlines to Damascus, resuming operations to the Syrian capital for the first time since 2011, when the civil war broke out and the country plunged into a devastating conflict that claimed hundreds of thousands of lives.

While many governments still advise against travel to Syria, warning of the risks of terrorism, civil unrest, kidnappings, and armed clashes, adventure travel agencies are already organizing tours for the coming months. Alsmadi, for instance, welcomed his first group of tourists in January 2025, at the border between Lebanon and Syria, just six weeks after the fall of Assad’s regime.

“Because of the war, the whole world knows about Syria’s existence,” he says proudly. “Now that Assad is gone, I’m sure tourism will grow rapidly. And as soon as the governments stop saying ‘don’t go to Syria,’ tourism will explode.”

In 2010, Syria was a prosperous destination for tourists, receiving over 10 million visitors drawn to its invaluable historical heritage. Sites like Palmyra, the ancient Greco-Roman city almost destroyed by ISIS, and medieval castles like Krak des Chevaliers, were must-see destinations for history enthusiasts. The city of Damascus, one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, also stood out, as did the turquoise-blue beaches of Syria’s Mediterranean coast.

Adnan Habbab, founder of Nawafir Travel and Tours, recalls Syria’s prosperous tourism days. In 2010, he opened Beit Zafran Hotel, a charming 19th-century Ottoman mansion in Damascus, which quickly became a success, with all rooms booked. However, with the start of the civil war the following year, he had to close the hotel. When Assad’s regime began regaining control in 2017, tourism returned, but with severe restrictions, such as tourists being followed by the secret police and tour guides being closely monitored.

Habbab shares his experience with difficulty. “Whenever I took tourists to Syria, intelligence would knock on my door to find out who they were,” he reveals. “The government saw all tourists as spies unless proven otherwise.”

Despite the challenges, the passion for rebuilding the tourism industry never disappeared. Alsmadi, who grew up in Damascus during the war and lost his home due to bombings, graduated in Tourism Management from the University of Damascus in 2019. “Tourism is always the first sector to be hit by war and the last to recover,” he says. “But it’s my passion. I love history, I love languages, and I’m happy I stayed in Syria. I want to help rebuild tourism.”

Now, with a full agenda of bookings, he believes the time to restart has come. Habbab, in turn, shares the same optimism and is already organizing tours for the spring of 2025.

Tourism has always been a crucial force in Syria’s economy, representing around 14% of GDP before the war. The industry has the potential to play a key role in the country’s recovery, bringing not only tourists but also jobs and revitalizing local infrastructure. According to James Wilcox, founder of Untamed Borders, which specializes in extreme destinations, tourism is a powerful tool to help a country rise from years of devastation. “It brings hope, especially for a nation where so many sectors have been decimated by conflict,” he comments.

Despite the growing reopening for tourism, many travelers may wonder whether it is ethical to visit Syria, considering its recent war history and human rights violations. The provisional government, formed by a coalition of rebel groups, still faces significant challenges, with former members of Assad’s regime being pursued and a large part of the population living in poverty. The Red Cross estimates that 90% of Syrians live in extreme poverty, with 76% facing food shortages.

However, international tour operators show optimism about the possibility of a rapid return to normalcy. Dylan Harris, founder of Lupine Travel, just returned from a visit to Syria and states that in the areas they visited, the situation is safer than it has been in the last 14 years. “We know it’s still very early, but the country is stable right now,” he says.

Wilcox, from Untamed Borders, also sees signs of recovery but warns that different groups within the country may have conflicting views on Syria’s future. “We’re aware of the risks, but we’re prepared to reduce them to the most acceptable level,” he says.

Before the war, Syrian tourists were mostly interested in the country’s rich history and heritage. However, with the return of tourism, many visitors are now interested in a darker form of tourism known as “dark tourism,” which includes visits to sites of tragedy and suffering, such as prisons and battlefields. Habbab believes this trend will continue, and his planned tours for 2025 include visits to Saydnaya prison, a notorious site for torture and execution under Assad’s regime.

For him, these sites play an important role in preserving historical memory. “We need to turn these prisons into museums,” Habbab advocates. “This way, people will understand why so many Syrians risked their lives fleeing to Europe.”

Tour operators are highlighting the positive impact the industry can have on Syria’s reconstruction. Shane Horan, founder of Rocky Road Travel, believes tourism can be an essential part of the country’s healing process. “Visiting Syria now is a unique opportunity to witness its resilience and contribute directly to its recovery,” he says.

Habbab also shares the hope that tourism will bring not only visitors but also significant economic change. “Come to Syria, and you’ll be witnessing history,” he concludes enthusiastically. “The whole country is in a festive mood. Syrians are rebuilding, and we want the world to share in this joy.”

If Syria can maintain its stability, tourism could play a vital role in the recovery of its economy and the rebuilding of its international ties. For many, traveling to Syria now represents an opportunity to directly support the Syrian people and celebrate their renewed hope and resilience.

Picture of Aarushi Sharma
Aarushi Sharma

an editor at TK since 2024.

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