Aspen beyond skiing: the Bauhaus refuge hidden in the Colorado mountains – TK

Aspen beyond skiing: the Bauhaus refuge hidden in the Colorado mountains

Aspen, globally known as one of the most sophisticated ski destinations on the planet, hides an architectural and cultural treasure amid the majestic Rocky Mountains that few visitors expect to find. The Aspen Institute, a global nonprofit organization, occupies a 16-hectare campus that goes far beyond what one would expect from a study center. Here, history, art, and architecture intertwine in a setting that surprises not only with its natural beauty but also with its commitment to the legacy of the Bauhaus school.

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In the late 1930s, Aspen was merely a sleepy mining town, a shadow of what it had been during the silver market’s heyday. The 1893 collapse had paralyzed its growth for over four decades, leaving its streets nearly untouched, surrounded by dense forests and snow-capped peaks. When Elizabeth Paepcke visited the region for the first time, she found an idyllic refuge, perfect for the vision she shared with her husband, Chicago magnate Walter Paepcke. Together, they saw the opportunity to transform Aspen into a center for the renewal of “body, mind, and spirit,” a place that would combine art, culture, and intellectual reflection.

This seed led, in 1949, to the founding of the Aspen Institute, which would become not just a think tank but also a living space filled with art and immersive experiences. Today, its campus hosts a 98-room resort, a free museum, research centers, spaces for concerts and seminars, as well as an impressive collection of outdoor artwork.

What makes the Aspen Institute even more remarkable is its strong connection with the Bauhaus, a design and architecture movement born in Germany in the early 20th century, known for its principles of functionality, minimalism, and the integration of art and utility. The person responsible for this unique visual identity was Herbert Bayer, an Austrian artist and designer who moved to Aspen in 1946 and helped redefine the city’s aesthetic.

Bayer, who had studied at the Bauhaus under masters such as Walter Gropius, was invited to design the institute’s campus. The result was a set of buildings that defy the traditional grandeur of Aspen, with low structures, clean geometric lines, and a surprising color palette. The use of concrete, glass, and simple forms reinforces the idea that beauty can lie in functionality, a core concept of the Bauhaus.

Visitors can explore this legacy at the Resnick Center for Herbert Bayer Studies, a free gallery dedicated to preserving and celebrating the artist’s work. With two floors, the space features both permanent and temporary exhibitions, including displays of graphic design, paintings, and installations created by Bayer throughout his career. Until April, for example, the exhibition Bauhaus Typography at 100 showcases books, magazines, catalogs, and posters that helped define the movement’s visual identity.

Walking through the Aspen Institute campus is like strolling through an outdoor gallery. Among trails and paths that change with the seasons, numerous sculptures by Bayer are revealed at every turn. During winter, they are partially covered by snow, while in the summer, they blend into the lush green landscape.

Among the most notable pieces are “Anaconda,” a seven-piece sculpture made of Carrara marble, created in 1978, and the “Marble Garden,” a set of 19 marble pieces designed in 1955. The “Sgraffito Wall,” a 1953 mural decorating one of the Koch Building’s outer walls, impresses with its intricate details, while Anderson Park, a garden designed in 1973, invites visitors to climb, play, sit, and meditate amidst the art.

Interestingly, one of Bayer’s design guidelines was to encourage direct interaction with the outdoor environment. There are no internal passages between the buildings; to move from one space to another, one must walk outside, reinforcing the connection with the surrounding nature.

At the heart of the campus, the Aspen Meadows Resort reflects the Bauhaus principles in its architecture and design. Its 98 rooms are distributed across six low, rectangular buildings constructed with concrete blocks and characterized by large windows offering stunning views of the mountains.

An intriguing detail of the resort is its façades painted yellow on one side and red on the other. This intentional choice creates an optical illusion, making visitors perceive the buildings differently depending on the viewing angle.

Created to serve as a retreat for intellectuals, artists, and global leaders, the resort has hosted U.S. presidents and Nobel laureates. Despite its exclusive atmosphere, it offers relatively more affordable rates than nearby ski resorts, making it an appealing option for those seeking a sophisticated yet discreet experience.

For those not staying at the resort, a great option is to visit the West End Social restaurant, whose glass-walled dining room frames the mountains in a striking way. The menu includes a daily brunch, served from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., as well as après-ski options and dinner.

Beyond its architectural significance, the Aspen Institute is a vibrant cultural epicenter, hosting events that attract brilliant minds from around the world. The Aspen Music Festival and School, one of the most prestigious classical music festivals in the United States, takes place annually between July and August, bringing together renowned musicians for performances and masterclasses.

Another highlight is the Aspen Ideas Festival, which promotes debates between global leaders, thinkers, and innovators. Between June 25 and July 1 this year, the festival will gather experts from various fields to discuss key issues in modern society. Past editions have featured speakers such as Bill Gates, Jane Fonda, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, and Brazilian chef Paulo Machado.

Although Aspen is famous for its luxury resorts and designer stores, its artistic and intellectual essence endures thanks to the vision of Walter and Elizabeth Paepcke and the work of Herbert Bayer. The Aspen Institute stands as proof that the town is much more than a ski destination: it is a place where art, architecture, and thought come together amidst a breathtaking landscape.

Whether exploring outdoor sculptures, attending a concert, or simply walking between the Bauhaus buildings on campus, visitors to the Aspen Institute have the unique opportunity to experience an Aspen that goes far beyond the conventional.

Picture of Aarushi Sharma
Aarushi Sharma

an editor at TK since 2024.

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