Known for its vast and breathtaking landscapes, the Trans-Mongolian Railway is one of the primary ways to traverse the country, replacing the traditional horse transport that was vital for mobility in the region for millennia.
Stretching 2,215 kilometers, the Trans-Mongolian Railway connects Mongolia’s northern border with Russia to the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region in China. Opened in 1956 after nearly 20 years of construction through challenging and spectacular terrain, the railway offers a unique perspective on Mongolia.
During the journey, the train passes through boreal forests, crosses the expansive steppes of central Mongolia, and ventures into the stunning and seemingly endless Gobi Desert. Small towns and isolated settlements dot the route, but signs of civilization become scarce, especially in winter, when much of Mongolia is blanketed in snow.
Mark Smith, a British rail travel expert and founder of the renowned website The Man in Seat 61, shares his experience on the railway: “The journey was simply incredible, offering a complete contrast to the previous days spent among the birch forests of Siberia and small villages with muddy streets and wooden houses. Mongolia revealed itself as a land of vast plains, camels, and frequent ‘yurt alerts,’ with nomadic settlements appearing on the horizon.”
The impact of arriving in Ulaanbaatar is even more striking. As the train approaches the national capital, the sight of tall buildings stands in stark contrast to the country’s vastness. Ulaanbaatar, home to over 1.6 million residents and rapidly growing, houses more than half of Mongolia’s population. When the full Moscow-Beijing line was operational, the city was an excellent stopover point on the journey.
Even for those not planning to board the train, a visit to Ulaanbaatar’s station is highly recommended. Opened in 1949, the station features ornate chandeliers in its waiting room and a vintage steam locomotive with a coal wagon permanently stationed by the platform. Visiting this sturdy Soviet-era railway station feels like stepping back in time.
In the past, many international travelers, like Mark Smith, used the Trans-Mongolian Railway as the centerpiece of an epic train journey between Moscow and Beijing. However, this route was suspended in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic and remains out of reach for most travelers.
Christian Stanley, director of the Trans-Siberian Travel Company in London, laments the disruption: “It’s a shame because it was one of the great overland journeys.” For travelers from countries not subject to sanctions against Russia due to the war in Ukraine, the journey between Moscow and Beijing via Mongolia is still possible, though not on the same train or booking.
If you plan to explore only Mongolia, there are no issues related to sanctions. The regular service between Ulaanbaatar and the twin cities of Zamiin-Uud in Mongolia and Erenhot in China is an excellent alternative. This journey, which traverses the steppes and the Gobi Desert, takes most of a day (or night). Tickets can be purchased at Ulaanbaatar’s main station.
In recent years, the Trans-Mongolian Railway has undergone significant modernization. Some of the Soviet-era diesel locomotives have been replaced with North American models. The carriages offer second-class compartments (with four-person capacity) and first-class compartments (with two-person capacity), equipped with lockable doors, small tables, power outlets, air conditioning, and heating. Sheets, pillows, and duvets are provided for passengers’ comfort. In second class, there is a single Western-style bathroom, while each first-class compartment shares a private bathroom.
Laura Jopson, a New Zealander documenting her adventures on the blog Laura the Explorer, shares her experience on the Trans-Mongolian Railway: “I shared a four-person cabin with a young Mongolian mother and her daughter. The compartment was comfortable, warm, and quiet. Each night, the attendants converted the seats into bunk beds, and luggage was stored under the lower bunk, making access a bit tricky during the trip. I recommend a small backpack for essentials you’ll need along the way. Each carriage had a samovar for preparing hot drinks and instant meals.”
Additionally, the trains offer dining cars with menus that include local specialties and some international dishes. Mark Smith, while passing through Mongolia, compared the onboard culinary experiences: “The Mongolian dining car was quite distinct compared to the Russian and Chinese ones. The food was good and hearty, but be prepared to eat a lot of mutton and rice!”
Ulaanbaatar is a highlight of any visit to Mongolia. Its notable landmarks include the sprawling Gandan Monastery, famous for its Buddhist artifacts, including a stunning 26-meter-tall golden statue of Avalokiteśvara; the Central Museum of Mongolian Dinosaurs; and the Bogd Khaan Palace Museum, which houses various national treasures.
While Genghis Khan established his capital in Karakorum in central Mongolia, the 13th-century military leader, emperor, and national hero is celebrated with an imposing stainless steel equestrian statue west of Ulaanbaatar, as well as a seated figure in front of the Government Palace.
A round trip on the Trans-Mongolian Railway between Ulaanbaatar and Zamiin-Uud provides a fascinating two-day journey. Travelers have the option to extend the experience by stopping in major cities along the way to explore the region more deeply.
For those wishing to travel from Ulaanbaatar to China or vice versa, a round-trip service is available every Monday and Friday. This service crosses the border and continues to Hohhot, the capital of Inner Mongolia in northern China.
According to Chinese state media, the route was relaunched earlier this year. From Hohhot, passengers can continue their journey to Beijing and explore more of China on high-speed trains.
Travelers who have experienced the trip often highlight the fascinating process of transitioning tracks at the Mongolia-China border. Mongolian trains use broad-gauge tracks, while Chinese tracks follow a narrower standard gauge.
Mark Smith describes the process: “When we arrived at the Chinese border station, we were greeted by martial music blaring from the station’s loudspeakers. You could choose to disembark and stretch your legs or stay on board while the entire train was moved into a shed. There, the train was lifted on hydraulic jacks to swap the Russian bogies for Chinese-standard ones.”
Smith chose to remain aboard: “It was a fascinating experience, full of noise and jolts. Each carriage was separated and then raised several meters in the air. Our original wheels were removed, and a new set was placed underneath us. The whole process took about an hour.”
